La Petite Société Gourmet
“Kitty,” my father asked, looking up at me from his fusty old typewriter, the kind that always entrapped my fingers when I tried to use it, “Kitty, what is the French translation for green salad? “Salade verte, Papa,” I sighed, regretting that I had ever told my parents that I had been a French major, albeit for only one short collegiate quarter. “Why?”
“Well, I’m putting together our menu for La Petite Societe Gourmet, and can’t find the words for a plain old green salad.”
“Salade verte should do it, but what else is on the menu? “
“Oh, some of our old favorites – smoked salmon, olives and sherry to start; a cream of watercress soup, fresh fruit for dessert, but a couple of experiments: a sole soufflé with a mousseline sabayon and for the piece de resistance, Boeuf Lucullus a la Brennan et Eglise”
“What’s that?”
“It started out as a beef tenderloin roasted with tiny potatoes and baby carrots, the recipe for Boeuf Lucullus a la Brennan, but I don’t like cooked carrots, so I substituted brussels sprouts and added my name to the recipe,” he replied proudly. Our last name was Church and the French word for a church, eglise, had been sprinkled liberally throughout the house ever since my parents had gone to Paris in 1956.
French words in the Church household, that I could understand, but French food – now that was new. My three sisters and I had been brought up on good, substantial American fare with, since we lived in Seattle, a Pacific Northwest twist. My mother, who was from a German family in the Midwest, was a great cook. Not weiner schnitzel and sauerbraten, but pot roast, poached salmon, boiled tongue, fried - not sautéed - smelt from the Columbia River, oatmeal bread, fabulous meat loaf with piquant (pronounced pee-cant) sauce, and lots of potatoes graced the dining room table. Family meals were raucous and decidedly food-oriented. More than one prospective beau gave up on us after a dinner punctuated with math games (Father used to love to play “stump the boyfriend”) and lots of talk about who had had third helpings and how many olive pits there were on your bread and butter plate - the more the better in both cases.
Ultimately, it was my father who enticed me into the culinary world. Around 1960, when I was 17, he started making wine. Some was fairly good and some was absolutely ghastly. Often, he would warn us before dinner, “I think there’s a little too much sulfur dioxide in this one.” Yuck, argh! His Semillons nearly killed us off. Slowly, however, the wines improved and soon he and his friend and fellow professor, Lloyd Woodburne, founded La Petite Societe Gourmet to explore, with friends, the realm of fine dining.
In my opinion, this endeavor didn’t start on a high note. I quote from the menu dated January 21, 1961, noted as La Premier Séance de La Petite Society Gourmet:
Hors d’oeuvres
Little Franks
Marinated Giblets
Soup
Chiffonade
Sherry
Fish
Filets de Sole au Vin Blanc
Piece de Resistance
Dugag Mahshie with haswa (what’s that?)
After that rocky start, Dad got serious. He subscribed to Gourmet, bought large volumes of cookbooks, and went into winemaking in a big way. He mastered fresh pasta: We swooned over his Capelletti, little pasta hats stuffed with chicken breast, veal and mortadella, served in brodo or in a light, fresh tomato sauce. He experimented with sweetbreads in puff pastry and perfected Boeuf Bourgignonne, Julia Child’s gift to American cooks in the 60s. The menus of the Petite Societe reflect this growing sophistication. The dishes became more complex, the wines a heady mix of Napa Valley vintages, an occasional bottle of French, German or even Italian origin, and a lot of homemade Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs and, my father’s favorite, Gewurztraminer.
By 1965, the menus sounded quite promising, though quirky.
Le Séance de Juillet de la Petite Société Gourmet
Hors d’oeuvres
Champignons El Prado
Pouffs de fromage
Quelque’autres choses (my particular favorite – it means “some other things”)
Xeres
Potage (so much jazzier than “soup”)
Potage Boula Boula (I think someone went to Trader Vic’s that year)
Cote de Soleil Chardonnay 62er
Piece de Resistance
Filet de Boeuf Louis et Armand avec Sauce Perigoudine
Chateauneuf du Paper 59er
These dining extravaganzas often lasted five or more hours. At least one other couple – or more – was invited after being warned that the evening would be long, thoroughly wine-soaked, and filling. Carefully typed menus were presented. My father and Lloyd Woodburne would trade off being Chef du jour and Steward du vin. My mother and Mrs. Woodburne were noted in the menu as Mesdames des Maitres, which wouldn’t go over very well these days, but in the early sixties sounded definitely Continental. In between courses, the party would stroll in the garden or take a walk around the block to allow the food to settle and provide room for - what else? - more food!
My part in all these festivities was as sous chef, dishwasher, typist, and absorber, only once as guest. While I can’t say that my father guided my hand in the kitchen, I believe that by osmosis, reading his magazines and inheriting his cookbooks, I have honed my palate and developed a real curiosity into the world of food.


